Business Takes Root.

When Myron Kuenzi opened his nursery and turf farm in 1990, he was determined to start off on the right foot. After interviewing fellow trees farmers, he learned about a revolutionary new method of planting and harvesting. The Root Control Bag from High Caliper Growing was beginning to take hold in the industry. And Myron soon discovered why.

A Whole New Ballgame.

Compared with ball-and-burlap, Root Control Bags provide distinctive advantages. Myron learned that Root Control Bags retain 85-95% of the root ball at harvest. Not only does this improve survivability during transplant, it also allows Myron to harvest and sell trees year round. Because ball-and-burlap preserves only 30% or less of the root ball at harvest, trees must be harvested in a dormant state. By retaining the vast majority of the root ball, Root Control Bags enable year-round sales, helping Myron smooth out his cash flow and spread labor needs more evenly throughout the year.

When the Time is Ripe.

While other growers are waiting for their trees to go dormant, Myron commands premium prices from construction contractors, landscapers and re-sellers. And his trees are vastly superior thanks to their health and nutrient storage at the time of transplant. Because trees store vital nutrients in their root balls, Myron’s trees recover and grow faster than his balland- burlap competitors. This carbohydrate storage is especially vital for the liner produced in the 10” fabric bag. Survival is near 100%, and first year startup is tremendous. Myron’s customers say trees go to market two years faster than bare root!

Faster. Cheaper. Smarter.

But the benefits don’t stop there. Root Control Bags contain the root ball in a smaller area, so no tree spade is required to get the trees out of the ground. Root Control Bags reduce Myron’s harvest times and costs by approximately 50 percent for the 21” fabric bag on larger caliper trees. That’s money he can sow back into his growing business. And growing is exactly what Kuenzi Turf and Nursery has done over two-and-a-half decades.

A Growing Success.

Today, what began as a 35-acre sod farm in 1990 has expanded to more than 500 acres, selling more than 150,000 trees annually throughout the Pacific Northwest, across northern U.S. and into Ontario Canada. Myron couldn’t be happier. “We get excellent service from High Caliper Growing. The staff is knowledgeable. The product is excellent. And our orders are filled quickly and diligently.”

Winter sowing is a technique used to propagate certain trees and shrubs, as well as some annuals, perennials, and vegetables. It involves sowing seeds of these plants outdoors in the autumn or winter, instead of in the spring – much like Mother Nature would if the seeds were left to drop naturally.

Many shrub and tree seeds require a period of cold to break dormancy and germinate. Known as stratification, this period of cold is often artificially induced by placing the seeds in a freezer or refrigerator before planting them, but when seeds are winter sown in colder climates, the appropriate stratification period happens naturally.

The benefits of winter sowing are many.

• First, growers can save money on expensive seed-starting equipment when they winter sow seeds. There’s no need for grow lights, germination chambers, or other special gear when starting seeds. All that’s needed are a few containers filled with a well-draining, peat- or coir-based potting soil blended 50/50 with compost. Fabric Root Control Bags make great winter sowing containers.
• Winter sowing doesn’t take up much space. Several seeds can be planted in each pot, and the pots can be tucked into a shady corner of the yard or garden. Containers are best left on the ground, so there’s not even a need for tables or cold frames to store them.
• The best time to winter sow seeds is when the growing season is over; there’s no need to fit seed starting into your already-busy spring schedule.
• There’s also no need to harden-off seedlings grown via winter sowing. They’ll already be growing outside, so no special accommodations will have to be made before moving the plants outdoors.
• Winter sown seeds will germinate and grow at the appropriate time for their species. There’s no need to guess or count calendar days to encourage the proper germination of plants – in most cases, they’ll do it just fine on their own.

What trees and shrubs respond best to winter sowing?

The seeds of tropical plants, tender annuals, and frost-sensitive species are not good candidates for winter sowing, but many cold-hardy trees and shrubs are. Look first to native species that grow well from seed; these are almost always good candidates for winter sowing. Seeds collected from a hybrid trees or shrubs may not result in a plant that’s identical to the parent. For the best results, winter sow seeds of straight species, instead of hybrids.

A few trees and shrubs that perform well when winter sown include:

• Oaks
• Maples
• Crepe myrtle
• Nut trees, such as hazelnuts, hickories, walnuts, etc.
• Holly
• Beech
• Ash
• Horse chestnut
• Red bud
• Tulip poplars
• Viburnum
• Elderberry
• Euonymus
• Serviceberry
• Elm
• Birch
• Chokecherry
• Honey locust
• Lilac

Learn how to winter sow.

To winter sow, simply bury several tree seeds or shrub seeds of the same variety in a Root Control Bag filled with the potting soil/compost blend. Typically, a depth of one-and-a-half-times the height of the seed itself is best. Space the seeds a few inches apart, and label the container so you know what’s planted in it. Water the seeds in, and put the pot in a sheltered site, if possible.

If you start seeds of perennials, annuals, or other non-woody plants via winter sowing, you’ll also need to cover the tops of the container with a cloche of some type for added protection. A layer of clear plastic will suffice. Shrub and tree seeds do not typically need this extra insulation, though tossing a handful of straw or shredded leaves on top of the pot helps insulate the seeds.

Come spring, the germination of plants will take place when the seeds are ready. The seedlings can then be separated and re-potted, or planted in the ground as soon as they reach a few inches in height.

Potential problems with winter sowing.

Occasionally rodents or birds may dig up your seeds during the winter. To keep this from happening, pots can be topped with a layer of protective hardware cloth. Just be sure to remove it in the spring, before the seeds germinate and grow up through it.

If natural precipitation doesn’t occur, you’ll have to irrigate your pots occasionally throughout the winter, but don’t keep them overly wet or the seeds may rot.

Winter sowing is a great way to propagate trees and shrubs. It’s smart, simple, and fun!